Ranthambore-On the Tiger Trail

Summer was fast approaching. Every week new records were being set for the highest temperature. We started planning for what could possibly be the last bike trip of the season during the second weekend of April. After pondering over the numerous hill stations around Delhi we finally zeroed in on the small but little exploited Landsdowne. Preparations were in full swing but then life is so full of ironies. This nature trip of mine came in conflict with the nature saving initiative of my company- the introduction of Euro IV fuel grades in India. We were loaded with so much work that I had to bail out of the trip in the last moment. My friends had a wonderful time and got some nice pictures, much to my envy. I was at an all time low having missed out on the season’s last journey.
But as my friend says “The biggest problem of getting bitten by the travel bug is that constant itching to travel further”. One month hadn’t passed after Landsdowne and we started to consider the next possibility. With temperatures soaring ever so higher our initial dilemma was between Nainital, Dehradun and Kasauli. Each were ruled out for their distinctive disadvantages. My disappointment of having not seen a tiger in Sariska made me suggest a trip to some tiger reserve. Sunil, my friend, having visited all tiger reserves except Ranthambore, Bandhavgarh and the North Eastern ones suggested Ranthambore. This was the ideal time for sighting them there. But 400kms by road oneway, in this climate and with just two days made a road trip almost impossible, and we decided to go by rail.
We started scouting for tickets. Unfortunately, all trains to Sawai Madhopur district where Ranthambore is located were full. We finally booked a sleeper in the Mewar express. Our return tickets were in RAC. Got a room booked at Hammir Resort in Ranthambore. Also booked a morning trip to the forest on 1st May. On 30th April we caught the train at 7:30 PM. Reached there at 1 AM.
In Ranthambore we can go in either in a gypsy, 6passengers, or in a canter, which is like a truck with 14 passengers. Gypsy costs Rs 600 per head and canter Rs 400 per head. We wanted to get a gypsy for just the two of us. Unfortunately, none was available. This was a little disappointing as Sunil being an avid bird watcher wanted to have the freedom of stopping the vehicle whenever he saw even the smallest of birds which wouldn’t be possible in a canter. Further, you are put up with 12other people which is not always good when you gor for a wild life trip.
Our morning trip was at 6 AM. So after a 3hour sleep we got ready to leave. Our worst nightmares came true when we saw the people in the canter. They were making so much noise that we lost hope of seeing any interesting wildlife let alone a tiger. They had no interest in anything except seeing the tiger and some even thought there were lions in the reserve. They got on the nerves of our driver and guide and even got “Gallis” from other vehicles for the noise they were making.

But I guess luck favors the stupid. After about 30minutes into our journey we had the first sighting. There was a group of 3vehicles, two infront of us, and walking towards us was the female tiger T-19. Since we were last in line we couldn’t get a good shot of the animal. But it passed by the side of the first few vehicles and then went into the jungle crossing right in front of our canter. It was so close, like the strays that cross our vehicles on city roads. What a magnificent animal it was. And it was very huge. I imagined wild tigers to be sleeker than those in zoos as they are not spoon fed. But she was huge. This sighting changed our moods for the better. We waited for some time hoping it will come out ant then moved on. There were quite a lot of other animals as well- spotted deers, sambhars, neel ghais, hanuman langurs etc and a lot of bird life as well. But the tiger was missing. We were nearing the end of the 3 hour trip and the driver started taking us back. But just about 15 meters from the boundary gate was parked a canter and gypsy and its occupants were buzzing. And there it was basking in the morning sun, right in the middle of the road, another huge beautiful female T-17, the sister of the one we saw earlier. It was less than 8ft away from our vehicle, unperturbed by the trespassers into her territory. We got about 15min with her until the calm was disturbed by a vehicle full of school kids, who on seeing the animal couldn’t control their enthusiasm. But after this everyone was really happy and excited, satisfied with the journey. On returning to the resort I handed over 1000Rs to the guide for the seats in the canter as is the case in Sariska. He was very happy and asked whether we will be going in the evening. We said we haven’t decided. But after returning to the reception, we learned that the money for the seats were to be given here and not to the guide. The guide thought we had given him a handsome tip, which explained his eagerness in getting us to go with him in the evening. But the excitement of seeing the tiger helped us overcome the huge dent this blunder made to our pockets.

From the reception we came to know about a guy called Sunny Patil. He is an ex navy guy, who quit that job and now worked as guide at the Oberoi. He also takes people on private guided tours to the Chambal ravines around the sanctuary. Though his charge of 4000Rs was very high, we decided to go ahead with it as the ravines are famous for mammals like jackals, fox, Indian wolf, caracal, sloth bear; reptiles like the crait, cobra etc. Also, his tour included a trip to a lake as well with ample bird life. We set out at 5 from the resort and on way got sighting of a Jackal family. Unfortunately, when we reached the lake, the staff of one of the hotels was having a picnic there. They were making such noise that any chance of seeing wildlife disappeared. However the place was serene and beautiful. Would have been excellently peacefully had it not been for the people gathered there that day. After the sun went down we started our return journey, ideal for spotting mammals. But misfortune continued as it started drizzling slightly. The climate became so pleasant that our hopes were crushed. We saw camel spider, a whole lot of jackals, a couple of rufous tailed hares. But nothing in the scale of what we had expected. We returned disappointed. But our guide was very impressed with our knowledge on wildlife which was not the case with most of the other tourists that he takes out. He was esp impressed with Sunils knowledge on birds. So next day we planned to meet again, this time free of cost.
After dinner, we set out on a night stroll hoping may be a leopard will jump in front. But after walking a few hundred kilometers away from the resort, the place becomes so dark and spooky that the flashlight you used rarely when you set out comes into use for every rustle of the leaf you hear.
Next day morning again we came to know that we got a canter only. Our spirits went down slightly. But the group this time was very interesting. They were wildlife enthusiasts, not just tourists who came to see the tiger. They enjoyed other animals as well, even the smallest of birds like us. So it was an interesting trip. We were in Zone 1 this day. It’s a very small area surrounding the very famous Rajgadh water hole of Ranthambore. But there was no tiger any where. At the centre of the lake is a fort. News had come that the tiger is inside the fort with a kill. We kept circling the water hole but as I said earlier, it seems tiger comes out only for stupids. We saw lots of other animals and birds but just not tiger. Finally we gave up and settled below a tree hoping the tiger would come out of the fort. After about half an hour of patient waiting one guy with a bino spotted the animal. It set the entire canter abuzz. We managed to get a long shot of the animal. It was the same T-17 we saw earlier, but the pictures we got was more natural than the previous day’s. The spirits shot up and everyone left the park happy.
That day after lunch, we took a gypsy for 2000 and went to a nearby place called Kundla. Roamed about for a couple of hours. Got pug marks of tiger and sloth bear but dint sight any big mammals except the jackal. But we were lucky to see the juvenile of a flame backed king fisher being attacked by three rufous backed treepies.

After this we met up with Sunny Patil. He took us to a place were leopard sighting is common. But it started drizzling again. Though we dint see the leopard, we got pictures of a chinkara juvenile, sand grouse etc.

Finally our trip was coming to an end. I dint feel like coming back from there. The place is so cut out from the rest of the world. There you see how people respect the wild life. Our return trip was by the 1 o’clock Mewar express. We were packed up and ready to leave by 11. Our tickets which were RAC also got confirmed. So after two days of excitement and very little sleep we were ready for a peaceful and comfortable trip back. But our adventure was just not getting over yet.

We reached station way before time but were surprised to check the reservation list. Neither of our names were there on the list. Our confusions increased and we were incensed by the inefficiency of the railways who after sending us a confirmation sms has failed to put the names on the list. But we were in for shock when we analyzed the ticket. Our ticket was for 1:00 AM on 2/05/2010 which meant the train left early morning Sunday. We got mixed up with the AM-PM confusion and booked the wrong train. Finally we had to book a general class ticket and come in a train all packed with humanity. Thus came to an eventful end a very eventful trip.

A trip on HOLI

Holi, a scary proposition for me from college. As it was approaching I was on the look out for ways to escape Delhi. As it fell on a Monday I had at hand a 3 day weekend. My friend and I started contemplating a bike trip for the week end. The climate was ideal for the same, neither hot not cold. The possible destinations ranged from the deserts of Rajasthan to the hill stations of Nainital. Finally we decided to visit the Sariska Tiger reserve considering the huge campaign tats been started for protecting our national animal.The plan was to reach Alwar district where sariska is situated. Get an accommodation there and then visit places of interest around. If time permits we also decided to drop by Jaipur on the return journey. We set out early on Saturday morning around 6:00 AM. Me on my Thunderbird, my friend Sunil on his Std 350. We drove continuously taking breaks only for tea and then for pictures at interesting locations in between.

Reached Alwar before noon. Our first destination in Alwar was Silisereh lake.

A former hunting lodge for the royalty, the lake is located in a very scenic location surrounded by hillocks. The hunting lodge is now an RTDC resort. But it has just 12 rooms so don’t dream of getting one without months of advance booking. After spending some time at this scenic location we climbed down hill. At the base was another RTDC resort. We booked a cottage for a paltry amount of 1200Rs. After resting our aching bodies for a couple of hours we set out to explore Bala Quila in the city.

The Quila has a Balaji temple, Balaji refers to Hanuman not Tirupathi Balaji, at the top. The ascent was superb with a good population of wild life along the way. We dint visit the temple but spent sunset atop the hill. After dark we returned to base and after food and watching India loose to SA hit bed.
Early next morning we set out for Sariska which is about 30Kms from our hotel.

Booked a jeep at the reserve for 1000 Rs and spend 3 hours inside. The reserve was frankly a let down. Inspite of the fact that the resort has only 3 tigers, deep down we were hoping we would get a sighting. We didn’t. The other wildlife was also ordinary and common, except for the migratory Bar Headed Geese, the highest flying birds in the world.

After lunch we set out for Jaipur. Though this journey was at the height of noon, still it was a pleasant drive. We reached Jaipur around 2 in the after noon. After freshening up we were joined by two of Sunils friends working in Jaipur. We decided to visit Jalmahal and the Nahargarh fort, of Rang De Basanti fame. After getting separated and lost for some time in the busy and confusing lanes of Jaipur we finally regrouped and reached Jalmahal to witness a beautiful sunset and moon-rise.

Then we went up Nahargarh. The way is full of hairpin curves and is completely dark. One wrong move and you will be plunging down. To add to the woes, half the climb is fully pot holed road. After some tricky driving all four of us reached the top in one piece. But the view and atmosphere up there is worth while. The entire jaipur city all lighted up looks extremely beautiful. We dint feel like coming down from there.

After the fort we decided to get a taste of some authentic Rajasthani food. We fixed up on some restaurant suggested by our guides. But when we reached the base of nahargarh tragedy struck. Sunils front tyre got punctured. Must have happened on one of the many pot holes en route. Fortunately it happened right in front of Jalmahal. So leaving Sunil and the girls behind I went in search of the mechanic. After loads off begging and promise of a good reward, one agreed to come. As the time was getting late the girls were packed off in an auto. Our plans for authentic rajasthani food was dropped and we decided to eat something after reaching our hotel. But this puncture was the crowning point of the entire journey. No bike journey is complete without some thing like this, esp when you are going in Royal Enfield. We got the thing rectified and reached our hotel just before midnight. In place of authentic Rajasthani we had just bread omlette.

After two days of early rising and continous driving we decided to wake up very late on the Holi day. We set out after a heavy brunch on our way back to Delhi. Reached back at around 5 PM covering 783 Kms in 2.5 days. One day later sitting in office typing this, I am already feeling nostalgic.

The Indian Diplomacy

This has nothing to do with the bungling done in recent past by our celebrated diplomats abroad. No I am referring to the day to day diplomacy, which we street smart Indians employee, with much better elegance than our appointed diplomats.

I have been driving my bike around in Delhi for abt 6 months now. Those who drive will agree with me that when you are at a new place identifying red lights are most difficult. Especially in our country when half the time they don’t even work. Thus jumping the red light is the most common transgression committed by a driver in India. Hence I must be pardoned for getting caught violating this simple law 3times already. The first two times it happened around CP (Connought Place) which for me has become the most confusing round-about in the world. I had no idea where the red lights were and was actually more concerned about finding my way tat I became easy prey for the scary Delhi Police. On both these occasions I escaped paying a simple fine.

The third time I got caught was on my regular route, during my journey back to home from office. From a distance I saw that the green light had started blinking. It turned yellow by the time I crossed the zebra lines. As my bike doesn’t have a reverse gear and seeing cars which have reverse gears still proceeding I also decided to take the plunge. As I just passed the crossing the lights turned red and there waiting with open arms were the cops. Naturally I was the only driver to be pulled up. The reason I was the last to cross after the light became yellow. My argument that shouldn’t the first person be pulled up cause he tempted the others to follow suit apparently fell on deaf ears. They checked my license and other papers while I continued my argument about the light being still yellow doesn’t mean you should stop etc. Finally fed up with my arguments, and possibly after hearing quite a lot of English words being interspersed with my still fragile Hindi, they asked what I was doing. The response I got when I told my companies name is something that I have seen many times in various places of North India - respect.

Till then I was the one calling them sir but all of a sudden the power formulae changed. The officer who caught me had a relative in the outskirts of delhi who required a gas connection. Seeing an opportunity in me he changed his stand bringing in the street smart diplomacy I was talking about. I assured him I will do all I can after he took my number and confirmed I dint give him a fake one by giving a missed call immediately. I went scot-free but my joy was soon overcome with the prospect of explaining to my boss about helping out some random person living in some far flung area.

Fortunately it’s been some months now and I am yet to receive any calls from the person. So hopefully his gas issues got resolved without my intervention. But it does make you wonder whether the IFS officers need to be trained on how to be street smart by these experienced diplomats.

Stalked By a Dog

This is an incident that happened to me during the initial months of my stay in Delhi. During that time I was put up at my company’s guest house in Noida. I was in sector 15A which falls right at the border with Delhi. I had some friends putting up at the Delhi side of the border at a place called Mayur Vihar. It was about 5kms from my place n I used to regularly take rickshaws to visit them.

The period was about November and my first winter in Delhi was setting in. The climate was very pleasant and so after visiting them in the evening I decided to walk back to my place. It was around 8 PM at night and since it was a Sunday the road was pretty deserted which is strange considering the fact that it’s the main connection between Delhi and Noida.

Now those who have visited this are would testify to the fact that after humans the most common living things in this neighborhood are cows and dogs. These creatures have been left stray by their owners after their utility expired. But they are domesticated and tend to be close to passersby who may remind them of their erstwhile owners. As I was walking back I saw a dog coming in the opposite direction. Now I have always been afraid of dogs and so slightly stepped aside to let is pass before proceeding. But after going ahead a few steps I realized that I wasn’t walking alone anymore. The dog was coming after me following my pace. I stopped again and let it go ahead. After going ahead a few paces it stopped and then lay down. Happy that it’s found its sweet spot I continued on my way only to realize that it’s also started. Being a cynophobic as I already mentioned, I got into a panic. Not knowing what to do I picked up my pace only to find the dog also get into his stride. When I reached a slightly busy junction I crossed the road hoping to loose but found the dog was with me when I reached the other side.

I realized that I had to find a faster way of transport and a human pulled rickshaw wont work. I continued walking praying an auto will come by. My prayers were soon answered and I jumped into the first auto that came my way agreeing to pay him the unreasonably high rate esp considering that more than half the distance was already covered. But my priority for the moment was to escape my “Stalker”.

I reached home safe with all body parts intact only with a much lighter wallet. My last sight was that of the animal running behind the auto with his tongue hanging out as it panted. But after reaching home I felt very bad for the animal though. He must have picked up my scent which reminded him of his old master; the animal seemed to be of a good breed and not a common mongrel. I felt I should have treated the creature better esp since I consider myself a nature lover. Next time I went to my frnds place I was looking out for the animal hoping to find it. I never did.

Getting over my Writers Block

Well it’s been a very long time since I put up something here. To be exact my last post was on 28th March 2008, Friday. I guess it’s just a coincidence tat I decided to come out of my writers block n start posting here on yet another Friday more than 17 months later. Many a times during this period of inactivity I got the urge to start up something here. But I never got beyond that urge. This urge never materialized. This got me thinking. What could be the reason that after making about 10 posts in less than a month I was unable to come up with even a single paragraph for more than a year? Either the world had gone terribly boring or I was no longer interested in the hap hazard state of its affairs. What ever is the reason I hope I am over that phase and will be able to become a regular here. Your remarks in the forms of comment would be a great welcome. Bless me in my second innings here. Cheers :D

Mamooty Vs The State of Gujarat

There's little doubt in my mind tat if u ask Mr. Mamooty which is the place he hates most in India the answer would be Gujarat... This birth place of Gandhiji whose ppl are famous for their resilience against calamities, both natural and man-made, has become an eyesore for this great actor... This came to light after Mamooty's remarks at a DYFI meeting that the presence of DYFI in Gujarat would have prevented the 2002 riots... Being the responsible citizen ( with a known left inclination) that he is, it is natural for Mr. Mamooty to express his indignation on what may be described the most horrible "communal carnage" in independent India... His outrage is even more justified by the fact that the state which is supposed to guarantee protection to its subjects played the part of a silent partner in the whole episode... But his claim that DYFI could have averted this butchery is nothing but an over statement...

He is talking abt an organization, which along with the SFI, is responsible for the largest destruction of public and private properties in our state (Kerala) as part of their hartals, dharnas, marches etc... This is an organization whose strategy for political domination mainly involves physical suppression of its opponents... As such the comments make you wonder on what factual basis it is based... Further take the case of other states with left domination... After Kerala the CPM is dominant in Bengal nd some other north eastern states... Why is it that this model organization was unable to thwart the massacres in Nandigram??? Why are they helpless in suppressing the ever increasing Naxal problems in the North East??? And more recently, why did this peace-loving non-violent group take part in the most organized political vendetta in our state's history by methodically eliminating the RSS-BJP workers in Kannur after the CPM state conference in Kottayam...

Mamooty's comments wud have been apt if they came from a leftist leader... They are known for their obstinacy and dogmatism and often come out with the most frivolous explanations for their actions... { The leader of this very organization recently stated that the impasse of public life during a hartal is a reflection of the citizens empathy towards it... How immature and removed from truth is the leader if he mistakes the apathy of the public for empathy??? }... But its is wholly unexpected from a person like Mamooty... He is undoubtedly one of the kings in Malayalam filmdom and is loved, followed, and even worshiped by a large majority in the state... The fans are from all shades of life and such politically biased comments would only alienate the star from the crowd... If he still claims to be an ordinary man with the right to speak out nething, then the public also has the right to treat him ordinarily... Then why did this ordinary man become so worked up and arrogant when a fan touched him during his promo works for the movie Roudram???

His tirade against Gujarat doesnt end there... In every film after that he has managed to mention the state one way or the other... In the film Nasrani he talks abt how the police remained silent when the mob went on rampage... At least tat movie had a situation for this reference to be made... But I was wonder struck when he made a reference to Gujarat in the movie Kadhaparayumbol... There was no reason whatsoever to make the reference and it was a one-liner included in the middle of a rhetorical dialogue...

If the actor is trying to insert elements of social responsibility into his movies then why doesnt he include the excesses of all the political parties in his films??? Why does he only speak along the lines of a communist and take up their propaganda in his movies???

The simple fact is that he is using his star value to impress his fans towards his political direction... He is trying to mix his reel life and real life... He may see his actions to be completely justified and it is sad that he doesnt realize his folly... There are actors with different political allegiances in different industries and it is scary to think what the fate of Indian films will be if they also indulge in such political manoeuvering thru their movies.....

Bourgeois Bureaucracy

This post is in response to a comment i saw on a friend's blog. The blog was an unbiased scrutiny of the indian polity and the "i am helpless" attitude of indians. The gist of the comment was something like this-- "Have u seen yes prime minister.. That ll give you an indication of how much power the politicians truly have"...

My first response was one of mirth... I cudnt fathom the rationale of a man comparing the exaggerations in a satirical with the real world... I quickly concluded tat he must be a post modern junkie, belonging to the burger-pizza-coke generation, who is so hooked up on serials tat to him they represent reality more than newspapers n history books...

But further reflection showed tat his views are not at all isolated... Majority of the Indians see the civil servants as a bunch of corrupt, self indulgent n irresponsible bourgeois, in spite of the fact tat they are among the best brains in the country... The politicians play their part to perfection in propagating this image by blaming the officials for every failure of the government... This throws up a couple of questions:
If the officials are responsible for every failure then they must also be the ones behind every success of the government... How come the credit of success is always given to the ministers while every failure is the result of an erring official???
How can officials be blamed for govt policies??? The policies are drafted by the cabinet, the officials are responsible only for implementing them... As such the failure of the policies must be seen as lack of foresight on the part of the govt; the only blame tat can be leveled against the officials is in the delay of implementing the plans... But then bureaucratic red-tape is a well accepted drawback inherent in ne such system...

It is true tat the politicians depend heavily on officials nd take thr advices... This is natural considering the educational qualifications most politicians but these advices are in no way binding... We have so many instances of ministers doing a volte-face blaming only officials for actions which whr started by them... Take the cases in this govts tenure:

The major one was the Munnar eviction drive spearheaded by chief minister's man friday... When things started gettin messy the chief-minister washed his hands off the whole affair... The leader of the team is yet to be given a new post...
The second member of the team got transfered twice after tat once for implicating the kin of the PWD minister (the second one) on a dubious land deal...
The resignation of the former chief secretary resulted from the govt tryin to blame her for their failures... The merchiston land deal n the HMT land deal has both been blamed on the officials...
One final case is tat of valarpadom evicts... The police used force to remove people from their homes... The CM later explained it as the actions of the collector in response to the remarks of PM's principal secretary...

These are very few of the cases that comes immediately to memory... From the time of our independence officials have been made the sacrificial lambs to cover up the failures of the govt... The simple reason is that the politicians need to face the public every five years for elections... To win they need to blame someone else for the miseries of the people... When you are in the opposition u blame the govt; when you are the govt u blame the officials... The officials, on the other hand, neither has to face elections nor do they ve the right to speak out... So ve never learn both sides of the story...

I am in no way tryin to justify the bureaucracy... The system in our country is highly inefficient... The stranglehold of politicians on officials is just one reason... The concept of a bourgeois bureaucracy is however outdated... It was applicable to the Vice-Roys who ruled our country on behalf of her imperial majesty the Queen of England {I love sayin it :)}... What we have now is a complacent bureaucracy, which is happy to neglect the well being of the citizens as long as they can secure their posts by serving their political masters..........